What Is a Clothing Tech Pack? A Factory Guide to Samples, Fit & Production

A new brand sends over a tech pack for a hoodie.

Before anyone starts sourcing fabric or making a pattern, I usually want to know something much simpler: can we actually understand the garment from the information in front of us?

The file may look polished. It may have clean drawings, color blocks and several pages of specifications. But that does not automatically mean it is ready for sampling.

The first questions are practical.

What exactly is being made? Which details are fixed, and which are still open? Can the intended fit be understood? Are the measurements repeatable? Does the fabric description narrow the sourcing direction enough? If there is printing or embroidery, do we know the finished size and position?

A clothing tech pack is the working document that turns a design idea into instructions a pattern maker, sample room, sourcing team and production team can use. It can include sketches, measurements, fabric specifications, trims, construction details, artwork placement, colorways and sample revisions.

It does not need to look impressive.

It needs to remove ambiguity.

For a first sample, that does not always mean every page has to be final. Some details can still be developed with the factory. Before bulk production, however, the important decisions should no longer exist only in emails, screenshots or someone’s memory.

They need to be clear enough to reproduce.

1. The First 10 Minutes With a New Tech Pack

When I open a new tech pack, I do not start by checking whether every expected page is there.

I first try to understand the product as a whole.

Imagine the file is for an oversized pullover hoodie. I want to know fairly quickly whether the body is simply oversized or heavily customized, whether the shoulder is dropped, whether the hood is single or double layer, whether the fabric has already been selected, and whether the front graphic is printed, embroidered or handled another way.

Two garments can both be called an “oversized hoodie” and still require very different development work.

One may use a fairly standard body with a heavier fabric and a custom chest print. Another may depend on a specific shoulder drop, wide sleeve, shortened body, heavy rib, garment wash and distressed print.

That is why I would rather receive a slightly rough tech pack that explains the important details clearly than a beautiful PDF that leaves the construction open to interpretation.

A beautiful tech pack is not always a usable tech pack.

What is already decided?

Brands often use inspiration photos, screenshots or existing garments to explain what they want.

Those references are useful, but it should be clear what the factory is expected to follow.

A reference hoodie might be included because the brand likes the sleeve shape. That does not automatically mean the factory should copy its body length, hood size, rib width, pocket shape or fabric weight.

A useful reference says more than “make it like this.”

It tells us which part of “this” actually matters.

What is still open?

Not everything has to be final at the beginning.

A startup brand may know the overall design, approximate fit, fabric direction, key measurements and logo position, but still need help confirming the exact fabric or a construction detail.

That is normal development work.

For example:

Fabric: target 350–400 GSM cotton fleece, final quality to be confirmed after swatches.

This is much more useful than:

Fabric: cotton.

The first version gives the sourcing team a workable direction. The second leaves almost everything open.

2. Style Overview: Can We Understand the Product Quickly?

The style overview is usually simple, but it helps prevent confusion later.

At minimum, the garment should be easy to identify without opening several different files.

Useful information can include:

Style name
Style number
Product category
Sample size
Colorway
Season or collection, if relevant
Revision number or revision date

These fields become more valuable once the same style starts generating different samples, comments and files.

You may eventually have a first tech pack, updated measurement pages, fabric swatches, embroidery artwork, sample comments, a revised sample and final production specifications.

If the naming is inconsistent, an old file can easily return to the process.

Revision dates help for the same reason.

A factory may receive one PDF on Monday and an updated measurement page on Thursday. If the new file does not clearly replace the old one, both versions may remain in circulation.

Sample size should also be stated clearly.

Many brands develop the first sample in one base size and grade the remaining sizes later. That is completely normal. The important thing is that everyone knows which size is being developed.

3. Flat Sketch: The Drawing Has to Explain Construction

A good flat sketch is not there to make the garment look attractive.

It is there to explain the garment.

For most products, the factory should at least be able to see clear front and back views. Extra views may be needed for hood construction, side panels, pockets, zippers, vents, sleeve panels or other details that are difficult to understand from the main drawing.

A reference photo can help, but it does not replace a construction drawing.

A brand may send a photograph and say:

We want the hood like this.

The photograph may communicate the shape very well. But it may not show whether the hood is double layer, how it attaches to the neckline, whether it has a center-back seam or how the drawcord channel is built.

As a general rule, if a detail changes the pattern or sewing construction, it should be visible somewhere in the tech pack.

There is a real difference between:

Regular shoulder
Dropped shoulder
Raglan sleeve
Panelled sleeve

The same applies to a curved hem versus a straight hem, a patch pocket versus a welt pocket, or an attached waistband versus a self-fabric hem.

If those details are unclear, the pattern maker has to make a choice.

That choice may not be the one the brand intended.

4. Measurement Spec: Where Fit Problems Usually Begin

If the flat sketch explains what the garment looks like, the measurement spec begins to define how it should fit.

A number on its own is not enough.

The factory needs to know where that number is measured.

If a tech pack says:

Body length: 72 cm

the pattern maker still needs to know whether that means high point shoulder to bottom, center back length or another method. On a hoodie, it may also matter whether the waistband rib is included.

That is why clear POMs — points of measurement — matter.

The same applies to chest width, shoulder, sleeve length, armhole, neck opening, bottom opening and hood measurements. Each point should be repeatable by someone other than the person who created the file.

This becomes more important when the intended fit is unusual.

An oversized T-shirt cannot be defined by adding a few centimeters to the chest alone. Shoulder width, sleeve opening, body length and overall balance have to work together.

A cropped hoodie can have the correct chest measurement and still look wrong if the pocket, waistband and body length no longer sit in proportion.

Tolerance is part of the specification

A factory cannot produce every garment to an exact millimeter, and different POMs do not always need the same tolerance.

Smaller or fit-sensitive areas may need tighter tolerances than larger body measurements, depending on the garment, construction and fabric.

Stretch fabrics may also behave differently from rigid woven fabrics during sewing, finishing and measurement.

During early sampling, the main question is usually whether the fit and proportions are right.

Before bulk production, the approved measurements, measurement methods and tolerances should all be clear.

5. Fabric: “100% Cotton” Is Usually Not Enough

Fabric descriptions are often too general in early tech packs.

100% cotton sounds specific, but it still leaves many questions open.

A 180 GSM cotton jersey T-shirt and a 280 GSM cotton jersey T-shirt may have the same fiber composition, but they will not drape or feel the same.

The same applies to French terry, brushed fleece, rib and other knitted fabrics.

A useful fabric specification should give enough direction to understand the intended material.

For example:

100% cotton, approximately 240 GSM single jersey, compact hand feel, low surface hairiness, final color to be confirmed from lab dip.

That gives the sourcing team a much narrower target than:

100% cotton jersey.

Composition and GSM matter, but they are not the whole story.

Knit structure, stretch, recovery, finishing and washing treatment can all change the final garment.

Sample fabric may not be the final bulk fabric

The exact production fabric is not always available when the first development sample is made.

With the brand’s agreement, an available fabric with a similar weight and structure may sometimes be used to test the pattern and construction before the final bulk fabric is confirmed.

That can be completely acceptable if everyone understands that it is a substitute.

Before bulk cutting, the actual production fabric should be confirmed for the characteristics that matter to the product, including weight, color, stretch, shrinkage and hand feel where relevant.

6. BOM and Trims: Small Parts Can Hold Up the Whole Garment

A BOM, or bill of materials, tells the factory what goes into the garment beyond the main fabric.

For a basic T-shirt, that may be relatively simple.

For a hoodie, jacket or activewear piece, it can include rib, drawcords, eyelets, zippers, elastic, labels, snaps, lining, thread and packaging.

Each component has its own sourcing conditions.

A custom zipper may have a minimum order. A rib color may need to match the body fabric. A drawcord tip may require a custom finish. An elastic that looks almost identical in a photograph may behave differently once sewn into the garment.

This is why small trim decisions can affect both sampling and production timing.

A useful BOM should make clear which components have already been approved and which are still being sourced.

If the exact zipper supplier is already confirmed, record it.

If the brand only knows that it wants a matte black zipper with a particular tooth size, that can also be stated clearly and finalized during development.

The sourcing team then knows what it is actually looking for.

7. Construction Notes: The Details a Flat Sketch Cannot Show

A flat sketch can show where a seam is located, but it does not always explain how that seam should be made.

Construction notes may need to clarify:

Seam type
Seam allowance
Overlock or coverstitch
Topstitching
Binding
Reinforcement
Rib attachment
Pocket construction
Zipper installation

The level of detail depends on the product.

A basic jersey T-shirt may need only a few notes. A structured jacket or activewear piece may require much more.

The goal is to avoid vague instructions.

Too vague:

Double stitch here.

More useful:

Two-needle coverstitch, approximately 6 mm gauge.

The second version gives the sample room something it can actually reproduce.

If a reference garment has a construction detail that matters, photographs of the inside can also be useful. Exterior photos often hide the information the sewing team actually needs.

8. Print, Embroidery and Logo Placement

Artwork is another area where small gaps can create very visible sample mistakes.

A note such as:

Logo on left chest.

is usually not enough.

The factory may still need:

Finished artwork width and height
Exact placement
Placement reference point
Print or embroidery method
Artwork file
Color reference

For chest artwork, placement may be defined from the high point shoulder, center front or another fixed point.

That matters because “left chest” can mean slightly different positions to different people.

Artwork should also be considered together with the garment proportions.

A graphic that works on a regular T-shirt may look too small on an oversized body. A back print may sit too high once a hood covers part of it.

Embroidery also depends on finished size, placement and fabric. A dense embroidery that works well on heavier piqué or sweatshirt fabric may behave differently on lightweight jersey.

Before bulk production, the approved artwork size, position, color and application method should be recorded clearly.

If decoration is an important part of the style, it is also worth discussing the available custom printing and embroidery methods before the final sample is approved. For common production issues, see our guide to screen printing problems in apparel.

9. What Can Be Missing Before the First Sample?

A first development conversation does not always require a finished 20-page tech pack.

For a relatively straightforward garment, the factory may be able to start with:

Front and back sketches
Reference images
Basic measurements
Fabric direction
Important construction details
Logo artwork
Approximate quantity

Some information can still be developed during sampling.

Final packaging details and care-label wording may not need to be locked while the first pattern is still being corrected, although they must be confirmed before production where required.

A final trim supplier code may also remain open while suitable options are being sourced.

The more important question is whether the missing information prevents the factory from understanding the product.

If the brand has not yet chosen between 320 GSM and 360 GSM fleece, that is a development decision.

If the factory does not know whether the garment should be cropped or regular length, development cannot move forward with the same level of confidence.

A tech pack does not need to be perfect before the first sample.

It needs to be clear enough that the factory knows what to build and which decisions are still open.

If you are still at the supplier-search stage, our guide to how to find a clothing manufacturer explains what to check before moving into sampling.

10. What Must Be Locked Before Bulk Production

The first sample can still contain open decisions.

Bulk production cannot.

Before cutting production fabric, the factory should know which version of the garment has actually been approved.

That normally means the following are no longer changing:

Final measurements and measurement method
Fabric and fabric weight
Color
Construction
Rib and trims
Artwork size and placement
Labels
Size grading
Packaging requirements

The approved sample should also agree with the latest written specification.

A brand may approve a second sample after changing the neckline, shortening the sleeve and moving the print higher.

If those corrections exist only in messages while the tech pack still shows the old information, production now has two different references.

Before bulk production, the approved sample and the latest tech pack should tell the same story.

For more complicated styles, a pre-production sample can also help confirm final fabric, trims, labels and construction before the full order moves forward.

These stages should form part of a controlled custom clothing development and production process, rather than being treated as separate decisions.

11. The Revision Log Matters More Than Most Brands Expect

A tech pack should change as the product changes.

The difficulty starts when nobody can tell which version contains the latest decision.

A simple revision record could look like this:

V1
First development specification.

V2
Sleeve shortened by 2 cm.
Hood opening reduced.
Front print moved 1.5 cm higher.

V3
Chest measurement adjusted.
Rib changed to heavier quality.
Approved for pre-production sample.

It does not need to be complicated.

Major corrections simply need to be recorded somewhere the development and production teams can both see.

If a change is discussed only in email, WhatsApp or a marked-up photograph, it can easily disappear later.

This becomes more important when several people are involved.

The person who handled the first sample may not be the same person preparing production or checking finished garments.

A clear revision history lets someone new to the style understand how the garment reached its current version.

12. How We Review the Second Sample

When a revised sample arrives, I would not start by deciding whether the whole garment simply “looks better.”

I would start with the previous correction list.

If the first sample had five confirmed issues, the second sample should answer those five issues clearly.

Was the sleeve shortened?

Was the neckline corrected?

Was the pocket moved?

Was the rib changed?

Was the print placement adjusted?

Only after checking those corrections would I look at the garment as a whole.

Sometimes one correction creates another issue.

Shortening a hoodie body may make the kangaroo pocket look too low. Changing shoulder width may affect sleeve balance. A heavier fabric may change how the hood sits.

So sample approval is not simply:

V2 is closer than V1.

The better question is:

Did the agreed corrections work, and did they create any new problems?

If the same confirmed mistakes appear again in the second sample, the problem may not be the design itself.

It may be that sample comments are not being transferred clearly into the working specification.

That tells you more about the development process than a polished sales presentation ever could.

13. A Minimum Tech Pack for a Startup Brand

Not every startup has a technical designer or a finished production document when it first contacts a factory.

For many straightforward products, I would rather receive eight clear pieces of information than twenty pages filled with assumptions:

Front and back views
Show the garment shape and important design details.
Reference images
Explain what each reference is meant to show.
Base-size measurements
Include the measurements that define the main proportions.
Fabric direction
Composition, approximate GSM, structure and desired hand feel are more useful than simply writing “cotton” or “polyester.”
Artwork and placement
Provide the artwork file with approximate finished size and position.
Important construction details
Explain unusual details that affect the pattern or sewing method.
Colorways
Make clear which colors are being sampled and which are planned for production.
Expected order quantity
This helps the factory evaluate fabric sourcing, trims, printing and MOQ before too much development work begins.

For many products, that is enough to start a useful technical conversation.

The document can become more detailed as the sample develops.

14. Before You Send a Tech Pack to a Factory

Before sending the file, I would do one final check.

Ask yourself:

Can someone understand the garment without speaking to me first?
Does every important measurement have a clear POM?
Is the fabric described beyond fiber composition?
Do prints and embroidery have a size and position?
Are unusual construction details explained?
Is it clear what is approved and what is still open?
Does the file show its latest revision date?

You do not need to remove every possible question.

Product development normally involves questions.

What you want to avoid are unnecessary questions caused by missing or contradictory information.

A good tech pack does not eliminate development.

It gives development a clear starting point and leaves a record of the decisions made along the way.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I send a clothing manufacturer a sketch without a tech pack?

Yes, especially during early development. A clear sketch, reference images, basic measurements and fabric direction may be enough to start discussing the product. More technical information will usually need to be defined as the sample develops and before bulk production begins.

What is the difference between a tech pack and a spec sheet?

Terminology can vary between brands and factories, but a measurement spec sheet usually focuses on garment dimensions, points of measurement and tolerances. A tech pack is broader and may also include sketches, fabric, trims, construction, artwork, colorways, labels and revision information.

Do I need measurements for every size before making the first sample?

Not always. Many products are first developed in one base size. Once the fit and proportions are approved, the remaining sizes can be graded. The grading rules should be confirmed before bulk production.

Who should update the tech pack after sample revisions?

The important part is that the latest approved changes are recorded in one controlled version. Depending on the project, the file may be updated by the brand’s technical designer, product developer or factory development team.

Can a manufacturer help complete an unfinished tech pack?

Some manufacturers can help clarify measurements, construction, fabrics and production details during development. The brand should still communicate the intended design, fit and key product requirements rather than expecting the factory to make every design decision.